In Good Taste
There’s something wonderfully comforting about pancakes that permits them to bypass all rules of dining etiquette. Perhaps it’s because they are too delicious for their own good, but somehow pancakes manage to be a respectable treat for brunch or dessert... we’re not judging. In fact, they’re so popular that they have their own day of celebration – Shrove Tuesday in Britain and Fat Tuesday in America (both celebrated on 5th March this year).
Just in time for Pancake Day, and with the help of the talented chefs from TART London – Jemima Jones and Lucy Carr-Ellison – pancakes have been given a scented update. Presenting Roasted Hazelnut and Spelt Pancakes with a Blackberry Syrup and Bay Leaf Ice Cream. Utterly exquisite, with an unexpected twist. Lucy says: ‘We wanted to play with the ingredients of Jo Malone London scents in our recipes. We decided to hero Blackberry & Bay, as we always use bay leaves in cooking but primarily in savoury dishes. It was fun to use them in a sweet dish, creating an ice cream by infusing bay with cream. It’s such a surprise when you try it – it’s floral with a spicy edge.’
TART London scented pancakes (serves 4)
For the ice cream
350ml double cream
200ml full-fat milk
8 bay leaves
1 vanilla pod, split in half
2 eggs
100g sugar
Pinch of sea salt
For the pancakes
80g hazelnuts
100g white spelt (or plain) flour
2 eggs
1 tsp sea salt
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp baking powder
2 tbsp butter, melted
2 tbsp maple syrup
For the compote
200g blackberries
2 tbsp sugar
Juice of 1 lemon
1 glass (100ml) white wine 
½ vanilla pod


For the ice cream
1. Place the double cream and milk in a pan, add the bay leaves and the vanilla seeds, and bring to a simmer. Take off the heat and leave to infuse for 1 hour. 
2. Crack the eggs into a bowl and add the sugar, beat until light and fluffy. 
3. Sieve the cream mixture you made first into the sugar and discard the bay leaves. Add a pinch of salt, stir, then pour into an ice-cream machine and churn until ready. 
For the pancakes
1. Preheat the oven to 180°C/360°F/Gas mark 4. 
2. Put the hazelnuts in a roasting pan and place in the oven for 8-10 minutes. Remove them from the oven and rub in a tea towel to remove the skins, and then blitz to a fine powder in a food processor. Place in a bowl and mix in all the other ingredients.
3. Heat a frying pan over a high heat, add a little oil (ground oil is good) and place a tablespoonful of the pancake mixture in the pan. Add a little butter (optional) to sizzle around the pancake, lower the heat, and flip once the bubbles have come to the surface.
For the compote
Put all the ingredients into a small pan and simmer for 5 minutes. Take off the heat and reserve until needed. 
Serving suggestion
As Jemima says: ‘Pancakes are always delicious but the Blackberry compote gives the dish an elegance. It’s nice and fresh with a touch of depth, with the hazelnut making it a perfect dinner-party dessert.’
Time to get flipping.

There’s something

wonderfully comforting

about pancakes that

permits them to 

bypass all rules of 

dining etiquette.

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